Best of the old-style highlanders.

Welcome to the first review!

I set this blog up about six months ago, wishing for a bit more flexibility in what and how I write, beyond what’s appropriate for whiskybase. I won’t go into the (positive) life events that got in the way, not wishing to turn this into one of those embarrassing personal diary-style whisky blogs. We’re here now, so let’s crack on.

The dry, malty and textured style of the East Highland distilleries could be the definition of what malt whisky is supposed to be.It has an inherent balance and complexity which I am partial to.

Today we’re tasting the youngest age-stated releases from Balbair and Glencadam, from different ends of the East Highland spectrum. Both are excellent.

Balblair, much further north, takes a wide spirit cut, resulting in a liquid which is big, punchy, and immensely oily. The cut at Glencadam is narrower, creating a lighter, drier and more floral spirit. Only Balblair uses worm tub condensers, yet both are sulphurous, with the new make at Glencadam showing a distinct green vegetable aspect. These sulphur elements create additional texture and flavour complexity during maturation.

Glencadam 10-year-old

Rating: 88 points

First glance: Pale, greenish straw – perfect. 

Nose: Always a little punchy, it’s young and lively but evidently well-matured. Dry, chalky and floral, with a three-dimensional grain complexity. Very malty. 

Promisingly develops an immediate haze with only a couple drops of water. Thus diluted, the nose unfolds and settles, turning more fruity-floral – bergamot, lemon candy, key lime pie. Soft baked goods and jut a whiff of sea air. Wonderfully balanced and zesty – 70% Chardonnay, 30% Sauv Blanc. Let it sit for half-ripe tropical fruit and a darker, flintier, minerality.

Palate: Thick, waxy, nicely textured for a lighter style. It’s obvious that the average quality of casks has been excellent. It’s a little zingy on the tongue, but nicely integrated for the age. A sweet, sunny, graininess, lots of citrus again, with bergamot and orange zest. Oven-warm buns. Bright and balanced. Finishes short to medium, as is expected at this age, with grain spice and soft phenols.

Conclusion: A modern classic. Refined, finding a beautiful balance between dry / mineralic / tart fruity / malty sweet. Let’s hope they haven’t cocked it up with the recent re-brand which replaced this gorgeous old-style bottle. In the Glencadam line-up, this 10 is just the start – the 15- and 21-year olds are both excellent, although the 21 is currently out of production.

Balblair 12-year-old

Rating: 89 points

First glance: Pale gold (slightly darker than the Glencadam)

Nose: Much sweeter, softer, oilier. More than a year of air in the bottle has had its effect, I remember this being extremely punchy and aldehydic when first opened. More orchard-fruity than the Glencadam – apricot, sweet apple, a bit of baked rhubarb. Much fattier, with tallow and melting beeswax. Water brings out a gentle floral side, and the honeyed, earthy smell of summer meadows. A slightly powdery sweetness from the re-charred barrels.

Palate: Beautiful. Dense. Again, there’s this balance between the freshness of the fruit and the sweetness of the malt, but this time delivered through a thicker, slowly swirling texture. Pastries, soft baking spice and with a little bit of water, a citrus freshness. Finishes malty, oily and peppery, with a medium length.

Conclusion: A brilliant old-style whisky, which is surprising considering the modern cask make-up. Usually, re-charred cask (in this case euphemistically called “double-fired”) are a good reason to avoid a dram. They tend to be too sweet, and to cover up the spirit’s signature. In this case, the have been used with judgement, to excellent effect.

This 12-year-old is easily the star of the Balblair line-up. The sherry casks used in the older versions result in a thinner and flatter spirit, whereas the 12 shows Balblair at its oily, hefty best.