North Sea Whisky

This 12-year-old Edradour is named after Dougie Maclean’s “Caledonia”, a sentimental little number making Scotsmen cry since 1977. The cover by Paolo Nutini is excellent. However, if Edradour was a song, it would be this beautiful ballad about drinking petrol by the Estonian punk band Vennaskond. It’s an uncompromising little distillery producing one of the most uniquely petrochemical makes in Scotland.

As many other young whiskies, the Caledonia is more impressive on the nose than on the palate. Despite this, it remains a good example of a single malt entirely deserving of this drink’s reputation. The barley’s signature grainy, earthy, citrus and sulphur notes lift the sherry, giving it power and complexity. The mixture rivals the best-aged fortified wines.

Edradour 12 Caledonia

Rating: 88 points

First glance: Oxidised chestnut

Nose: Big and diffusive, shaped by the spirit sulphur driving it out the glass. It’s a dry, elegant style of sherry – there are no youthful red fruit or sour notes, it’s all very classic and thoroughly oxidised. The coastal salinity is odd, Edradour being bang in the middle of Scotland – but that’s the sherry as well.

Nuts, sea salt and basalt, noble rot and earthen floors. Riesling-like petrochemical notes and latex, mixed with the heart of a Middle-Eastern perfume – Damask rose and amber. This Edradour has been put together with extreme care, none of these powerful elements being overbearing. It is rich while remaining dry, rustic without losing its freshness and softness. Water reveals more malt, with buttery oatcakes, fresh fruit and Christmas spice.

Palate: Dry, a little oily – Edradour is a big distillate, but most sherried whisky loses some texture in the bargain. Still very good, coats the tongue nicely. A little less complex and refined than the nose (again, this can be the case with sherried whiskies), with a warming punch throughout the palate. Fresh, with red and yellow fruit, spices, petrol again, ginger biscuits dipped in dark chocolate. Good oxidised port and a Sunday roast with rosemary and thyme.

Finish: Gently drying tannins, wood oils and pine needles. Warming, alpine and delicious.