North Sea Whisky

I had a look at four Kilchoman Founder’s cask releases a couple of weeks ago, all nearing their 20s, and all excellent. Since then, I’ve had in my glass four of their recent “limited” editions (limited only in the sense that whisky marketers in their abuse of the English language interpret the word, they’re pretty big batches – except for the Feis Ile bottling). These were:

Kilchoman 100% Islay 15th release (9 year-old)

The 2026 annual Loch Gorm (fully sherried) release

A 4-year-old matured in Maury fortified wine casks

The 2026 15-year-old Feis Ile bottling (10 years in bourbon + 5-year second maturation in Calvados casks)

The 100% Islay performed to its usual standard, the Loch Gorm was another sulphurous let-down. I haven’t had a sulphur-spoiled single cask from Kilchoman, which leaves me in no doubt Kilchoman know exactly what they’re doing by trying to hide the spoiled sherry casks into bigger batches. Sadly, this spoils the whole batch, and this has been called out by other enthusiasts in previous batches of Loch Gorm.

I’m surprised to be saying this, but both the sub-5-year old from an obscure fortified wine cask and the Calvados finish were successful in their oddity. That said, I had a glass of the 2021 Feis Ile release from more conservative casks as a palate cleanser, and I would take this style over the cask experiments any time.

Kilchoman 100% Islay 15th Edition – 9 years old

Rating: 87 points

First glance: Straw

Nose: Clean, concentrated, and a little punchy. Becomes softer and rounder with dilution. Heavy on barley and coastal peat, with just a sprinkling of fruit for freshness. Just enough sweetness to bring out the best in all the drier mineral notes. There’s the purple florals I’ve come to expect from the 100% Islay distillate. Dry ash sitting on sweet orchard fruit and lemon peels. Also this apricot note which seems to be part of the distillery signature.

Palate: As usual with Kilchoman, a medium weight. Less texture than the old casks I tried in the previous post – still leans a little waxy. The flavours are fresh and elemental, with the barley and peat ahead again. Lemons, gherkins, chalk – beautifully clean, and with just enough texture for the flavours to play nicely on the tongue. The peat starts off peppery more than anything else, but develops a floral aspect in the mid-palate. A medium finish with gherkin juice, weed and sweet barley. 

Conclusion: Delicious, super pure, exactly the style I’d reach for often if I had a bottle. I’d probably score it higher if it were a couple years older, but it is already very good. I suspect some air in the bottle would also help.

Kilchoman Loch Gorm 2026

Rating: 84 points

First glance: Much lighter than expected, and lighter than the previous Loch Gorm’s I’ve head. Barely a reddish tinge in here, it’s golden. 

Nose: Feels oilier and more condensed on the nose, but that’s expected. Last week’s post already showed that this is a key difference between the 100% Islay and commercial barley versions. The 2026 Loch Gorm was matures as usual in Oloroso butts, with some refill butts thrown in.

Sadly, there’s also some sulphur. It isn’t present in particularly high levels, but there’s still a spiky and sweaty aspect. This makes tasting any of the subtler notes quite tricky. There’s lots of promise in the texture and the apparent freshness of the nose – but the sulphur ruins it for me. 

Palate: Dominated by sulphur as well. I do get loads of soft spices, and the maltiness seems beautifully developed as well – but it’s difficult to tell behind the sulphur. The texture’s nice and thick. Starts soft and develops some heat in the mid-palate. In the finish, the sour sulphur is what stays with you.

Conclusion: It’s crazy getting these (really expensive) sherry butts from good bodegas – only to have the sulphur in them ruin the whole experience. I suspect this would be 90 point material without it, there’s beautiful freshness, balance and texture lurking behind the devil. 

Kilchoman Maury Cask (just under 5 years old)

Rating: 85 points

First glance: Worryingly orange!

Nose: I don’t know much about Maury fortified wine, but it’s evidently sweet. Definitely doesn’t taste just under 5 years old, I suspect the sweetness might help there. It noses round and soft for the age and abv, with the peat showing as sharp black pepper throughout. A bit of sulphur, lots of orange jelly and walnuts. There isn’t a ton of Kilchoman left here, except for a tinge of fresh fruitiness and a subtle floral side to the peat. However, it is brilliantly well integrated for the age. Dilution shows more of the grain with a nice oatcake note.

Palate: A youthful kick on the palate. Fairly weighty, but in a syrupy way. An initial sweet and fruity burst of orange gummies turns into peppery peat in the mid-palate, finishing with those same notes combined in a simple but balanced way. 

Conclusion: Simple, sweet, fruity, biscuity. Too sweet for me, and I wouldn’t go back to it night after night, but this is a successful experiment by Kilchoman. One of the rare instances where a bit of sulphur blends into the flavour profile quite well.

Kilchoman Feis Ile 2026 (15 year-old Calvados cask)

Rating: 87 points

First glance: Greenish straw

Nose: Super waxy after that young Maury. Crayons, cosmetics, play-doh. Beyond that, pretty much the usual grainy and fruity Kilchoman profile, with a subtle green sourness which works well. Thank goodness, there are no overt apple notes. Not super complex and the aromas are a bit all over the place, but the intensity of the  waxes and florals makes up for that. 

Palate: Spicy, green-fruity, floral. A little minty. Develops nicely on the palate, starting with zesty greenish fruit and a narrow impression of malt, but taking a U-turn on the mid-palate towards candied florals, also building up pepper peat. Finishes dark and gunky, with that heavy waxiness showing up again, mixed with some farmhouse / saison phenols. Really nice. 

Conclusion: It’s not as integrated as some of the best Kilchomans, but there are fascinating and intense sides to this which I haven’t tasted before. The distillate is still in the lead, although it feels like the malt and peat are narrowed and subdued. Another successful experiment, and the best Calvados cask I’ve had. Thankfully, they were careful to empty the thing before filling it with whisky.