North Sea Whisky

Kilchoman and Daftmill are at the forefront of the new-millennium “craft” whisky revolution, going about it in very different ways. Both are farm distilleries, but Daftmill uses its own barley exclusively and operates at a much smaller scale. Neither do they tend to venture beyond traditional bourbon and sherry casks, thank heavens. Because of this, whisky lovers have at times paid ridiculous money for Daftmill’s bottlings. Those days are, thankfully, in the past.

As this year’s Islay Festival approaches, I’m going to be tasting a lot of Kilchoman soon. As a warm-up, let’s try this 2021 festival release made with 100% their own barley and local peat. As a warm up to that, the 2023 cask strength 15-year-old from Daftmill. That should get us warm enough.

We have a lot to be grateful for with these two distilleries. I only wish they made more use of heritage barley strains. Locally grown or not, modern barley pales in comparison. This makes a difference in beers, but the difference is concentrated 10x in whisky. Still, as far as modern whisky goes, these are bangin’.

Daftmill 15-year-old (2023) “Fife Strength”

Rating: 88 points

First glance: Honey

Nose: Quite concentrated, lots of cask influence – not very enjoyable neat. The punchiness of the casks and the obvious oiliness of the spirit fight each other, even on the nose. Needs lots of water! 

The overall impression is unique. This Daftmill leads with the candied fruit and cotton candy typical of modern bourbon-matured Lowlanders, but adds a lot of earthy complexity. Kentish garden vibes: honey, hops, orchard fruit. Marzipan and nougat on the sweeter side. Yellow-green citrus lemons and half-ripe oranges cut through the oil with an ozonic edge. 

You can’t help but think of the soil this barley grew in, warm with the summer sun. 

Palate: Light-bodied, with a superb oily texture. Lots of spicy structure on the mid-palate from tannins and alcohol, luckily there’s enough honey and oil to carry it all. Leads with zesty citrus fruit, turning into sweeter apricots and peaches, all on a backbone of various garden herbs in bloom. Sweet basil, soft oregano, blending sweet and savoury. 

Finishes on cotton candy, honey and lots of spicy hops: the honey of East Kent Golding with the more robust bitterness of Fuggles.

Conclusion: Totally unique style. Feels close to the land, rustic and beautiful. It’s intense and a bit wonky, but I find it very engaging. The super narrow cut at Daftmill really concentrates the oils, like an old Macallan, and this texture stands up to the intense casks well. The 15-year-old cask strength has always pushed the limits of decency with its pricing though!

Kilchoman 2021 “Feis Ile”

Rating: 89 points

First glance: Light mahogany

Nose: Concentrated again, with a silver sandy beach littered with cigarette ash and dried kelp. Water reveals a beautiful, light-bodied malt signature with a pleasant waxiness. The peat is powerful, dry, with old dry herbs, menthol and old ashtray, some smoked sausage and ham. Soft orchard fruits and lemon tea. Balances between sweetness and freshness, carefully put together and superb for its age – truly impressive. 

Palate: Just a sliver of acrid peat without water. Give it a couple spoonfuls… Similar to the nose, light-to-medium bodied yet with an oiliness that softens and carries it, nice and round. Fresh, leading with menthol and thyme, but these are nicely balanced by the sweetness of the casks. Lots of fruit, both citrus and orchard, but these are secondary to the malt and the peat. A long finish of fresh ashy peat and subtle oak. Excellent.

Conclusion: You wouldn’t think it, but the younger, peated whisky is the more refined one here. Just beautifully put together. The quality of the raw ingredients creates a full and three-dimensional experience that no shortcut will replicate.